Cuban Shrimp Po-Boy final with kale _lemon side_IMG_3856 copy.jpg

(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2024)

The final pinky shrimp po’boy with kale lemon side salad.

A Pinky Shrimp Po'boy to Soothe Your Food Fever

Steamed, not fried, and on Cuban bread, Miami-style

by

A Cajun shrimp po’boy, or a bánh mi – or sub or hoagie, or just a plain ol’ hero by any other name – with simple fixin’s helped this column serve up a delicious shrimp-stuffed snack.

The go-to bag of frozen Key West “pinky” shrimp you can always find in my fridge made this editorial flight of flavorful fancy an easy landing. In fact, that bag of shrimp with 26-30 of those babies is one of my classic staple comfort foods. They can be steamed, peeled and ready to eat in 15 minutes. Whipping up a hot bowlful prepares me for at least one episode of “Julia” (pounding meats), “Reacher” (pounding terrorists) and some National Geographic (pounding nature’s waves).

I have a disdain for deep-frying shrimp or any seafood, as in the classic po’boy. The Cajun style is classically killed using heavy batter dipped-kabobs dunked in a torturous bath of outdated oil. Not on my watch. This time you’ll get an easy-peasy recipe for comfort and simplicity.

So, hold on for some screaming steaming to the rescue, but first I must thank my good friend and fellow photographer, Mary Beth Koeth. Luckily, I had dinner with her before I wrote this column and found her New York Times “kale prep” most inspiring. It turns out the crushed kale with lemon juice and shaved Asiago was the perfect balance for my po’ pinkys – an absolutely perfect pairing I’m sharing with you! Finally, a way to enjoy kale; thank you MBK.

This brings me to the sammich, the sub, the hero, the hoagie … the pinky po’boy! I used frozen shrimp this time but if you can buy fresh penaeus notialis, get a few pounds. That species is exceptional in flavor.

When feasting in New York City, I enjoyed many orders of salt and pepper shrimp at Oriental Seafood Garden on Elizabeth Street in Chinatown. The chef would flash-fry them at such a high temperature that you were supposed to eat the shell and the head, which ended up having the consistency of a potato chip. After eating those fried babies for more than 30 years, I found out they were imported from Florida. How ironic is that? I ate bait shrimp for 30 years. Yup … bait shrimp.

Anyway, like the classic BLT, a simple pinky po’boy can soothe any food fever. The crushed kale salad works marvelously to balance the richness of the shrimp-mayo components. This is a quickie and I hope you do smile when you’re smellin’ what I’m tellin’.

CHEF SID’S PINKY SHRIMP PO’BOY

Serves: 1

Prep time: About 15 minutes

INGREDIENTS

·     1 1/2 cups kale, stems removed, torn into mouth-sized bites

·     Juice of 1 medium lemon

·     1 teaspoon + 1/2 teaspoon lemon zest, separated

·     2-3 tablespoons shaved Asiago cheese

·     Thinly sliced radish, optional

·     12 Key West pink shrimp

·     3 globular tablespoons of mayonnaise, preferably Blue Label or Duke’s (If you use Miracle Whip you are disowned.)

·     1 big pinch torn cilantro leaves

·     1 big pinch finely chopped chives

·     1/3 loaf Cuban bread – heave-ho the sourdough ‘cause fluffy Cuban bread is best

·     1/2 head butter lettuce, washed well

·     3 slices healthy ripe tomato

·     1/4 cup chopped cilantro

·     Salt to taste

·     Pepper to taste

PREPARATION

·     Bathe kale in lemon juice, toss with 1 teaspoon zest, crush leaves and let marinate about 15 minutes; hand toss in Asiago to taste – consider adding some thinly sliced radish as well – then place in serving bowl and set aside.

·     Place steamer insert filled with shrimp into large pot and cook 5 minutes – no reason to destroy the shrimpy sweetness by oversteaming! Remove from heat and let cool before shelling.

·     Make herbed mayo by combining mayo, cilantro leaves and chives; I like to also toss in some finely chopped scallions.

·     Now, for the making! Scoop out a bit of the bread’s guts so you have room to ply the trough with lettuce leaves, tomato slices, shrimp, a slather of herbed mayo, chopped cilantro and a wisp of lemon zest; season with salt and pepper to taste.

·     Plate up your sammich with that citrusy softened kale and enjoy!

Next month, I hope to work a chicken into my kitchen.

Sid Hoeltzell is an award-winning Miami-based commercial food and beverage photographer and former “MasterChef” contestant. He has completed more than 450 commissioned works for Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, teaches food photography seminars and is a preferred fine art photographer for Christie’s, Sotheby’s and private collections.