In Search of Rare Spirits

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(Wikimedia Commons)

Sipping Becherovka evokes the feeling of an Old-World cathedral.

There is a liqueur that tastes the way incense burning at a midnight mass smells. It’s from the Czech Republic, and a single sip summons the feeling of sitting in a wooden pew, darkened with age, under the brilliant, watchful eyes of stained glass saints – or even a mysterious Madonna. It’s called Carlsbad Becherovka or, if you’ve got an old Czechoslovakian bottle, Karlsbader Becherbitter. It’s not impossible to find, but it’s not easy, either.

Is it worth the effort? Not everyone likes the feeling of sitting in a centuries-old house of worship, especially when that’s not something you’re actually doing. It’s only a sip – in a minute, the feeling is gone. But it is an experience.

There are those who drink simply to get drunk. Everclear and Crystal Light is a good enough combo because, hey. Then there are those who indulge for the flavor – a pairing of a chianti with a caponata – or for the label. But South Florida has always provided fertile ground for spiritual seekers who look beyond the obvious and everyday. For the dedicated Biscayne Tippler, having an experience is the goal.

After all, they call them “spirits” for a reason. The words “aquavit” and “whiskey” both mean “water of life” – as in, these were once regarded as magical elixirs. Approach them with respect and a willingness to learn and you’ll be rewarded.

This is where Miami’s own Danilo Bozovic and his Swizzle Rum Bar & Drinkery at 1120 Collins Ave. really shine. The speakeasy in the basement of the Miami Beach Stiles Hotel is run by the same team behind the late, lamented Employees Only.

As the name implies, Swizzle pours no less than 150 different rum brands. But managing partner Bozovic, 2018 Remy Martin Bar Champion and author of “Barkeep,” has also put together a “Rare and Forgotten Spirits” menu designed to highlight distinctive cocktails and spirits that are decidedly out of the ordinary.

In other words, Bozovic serves experiences. Not necessarily Carlsbad Becherovka, but the aforementioned aquavit ... as well as more exotic spirits like slivovitz, clairin and singani.

“I have always been fond of the history behind my craft, the cocktail and the regions, as well as their stories and how they evolved throughout time,” Bozovic explained. “This menu imbibes the historic aspect, the tradition, and our heritage as humans throughout the New and Old World.”

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(Danilo Bozovic for Swizzle Rum Bar & Drinkery)

Danilo Bozovic, a managing partner at Swizzle Rum Bar & Drinkery, is experienced at pouring new experiences.

Old Spirits

Aquavit is, of course, Scandinavia’s answer to vodka. But what about those other three? What makes them worth sampling?

Let’s start with slivovitz. It’s a jammy spirit with a faint flavor of almonds, a plum brandy that’s such an important part of central European culture that it, like French Champagne, has Protected Designation of Origin (PDO) status.

“Slivovitz is the national drink of Serbia, and it is made in every house,” Bozovic said. “The head of the household takes great pride in the quality and taste of their slivovitz. It represents the pride, the culture and the tradition of the people living and working on the land for centuries.”

It’s also the perfect aperitif, he says.

Clairin, on the other hand, might be more familiar to South Floridians. Like white rum, it’s distilled from sugar cane. But clairin, a pungent, fruity, herbal spirit, is especially significant in Haiti.

“Clairin is almost always present in Haitian ceremonies,” Bozovic said. “It represents the history of Haiti, its music, cuisine and people. Clairin is made from locally grown wild sugar cane, very similar to Martinique’s and Guadeloupe’s agricole rhums.”

Singani, on the other hand, is a potent, lightly floral brandy from the Bolivian Andes, where it’s distilled from Muscat of Alexandria grapes.

“Only produced in Bolivia, it is the national pride,” Bozovic said.

These are the stars of Swizzle’s Rare and Forgotten Spirits menu – though you can always ask if there’s something else interesting available.

“Guests can order unusual drinks, no matter if it’s on the menu or not,” Bozovic promised. But he plans to create new fans of these spirits and to keep them coming back.

“I try not to change the menu much since I always like places where you can go and order your favorite drink or dish, knowing it will be there,” he said.

Of course, you can always experiment with friends at home looking for something different. Bozovic suggests trying a Swizzle cocktail called Besame Mucho, which combines tart hibiscus and habanero spice with clairin and mezcal. The result is a complex drink with a finish that’s the perfect balance of smoky, funky and tart, with a slight spice.

“You can always find a spicy ingredient to substitute for the habanero tincture, and making hibiscus water is similar to making an unsweetened tea,” he said. “All that is left is for you to work on your rolling (gently “rolling” ingredients in a shaker, rather than shaking) method.”

Happy explorations.

BESAME MUCHO

METHOD

·      To brew hibiscus water, bring 2 cups water almost to a boil, then add four bags hibiscus tea, lower heat and allow to steep for around 4 minutes; strain and cool, then add 2 tablespoons citric acid.

·      Place hibiscus water, clairin, mezcal, lime juice, simple syrup and habanero tincture in a shaker filled with ice; using the rolling technique, slowly pour iced drink back and forth between two shakers to avoid frothing for four or five passes to mix the cocktail thoroughly.

·      Strain cocktail into a rocks glass over a large single cube; garnish with a dry chili pepper and half tajin rim.