Upon hearing “The Bahamas,” the first city that comes to mind is probably Nassau, a frequent stop on many cruise itineraries. But The Bahamas is an island chain made up of 700 islands, of which only 16 are habitable. This brings me to Eleuthera.
What immediately stands out is the charm of the island and the difference between it and Nassau. The pace is slower and everyone appears to know each other.
The drive from the airport is very scenic. Eleuthera is 110 miles long and not even two miles wide. En route to my resort destination, The Cove Eleuthera, our driver pointed out the Glass Window Bridge, a phenomenal spot where the Atlantic Ocean is one side and the seas of Eleuthera are on the other. It’s apparently common to see people get out of their cars along the bridge and stop by a rock formation called “The Eye” to take a picture.
(Lahoma Scarlette for The Biscayne Times)
“The Eye,” a natural rock formation along Glass Window Bridge, Eleuthera.
The Cove is in Gregory Town, also known as “Pineapple City” because of its history with the fruit dating back to the early 1700s. Gregory Town began exporting the fruit all over the world in the 1840s. An annual pineapple festival is now held here in June to honor pineapple farmers and the abundant, sweet fruit that has made this town so prosperous.
The resort is an oasis full of picturesque views along beautiful beaches where you may choose between bungalows or villas. Taking up a suggestion offered to guests, I went on a sunset cruise my first night on the island.
(Explore the Bahamas)
A woman enjoying Eleuthera’s annual Pineapple Festival in Gregory Town.
Capt. Eljay Colebrooke guided the hourlong excursion, sharing a few tidbits about the island along the way, including that Eleuthera means “freedom” in Greek. The cruise is a great way to see the coastline and although the sunset is magical, if you can keep your eyes on the water, you just may spot a dolphin or two swimming alongside the boat, as I was lucky to experience.
Back on land, it was time for dinner at The Cove’s on-site restaurant, Freedom Restaurant and Sushi Bar, where the broiled lobster tail was superb and so was the service.
There is a saying, “Eleuthera … it’s not for everyone.” If you’re not a fan of slow-paced island living it may not be, but if you want a true island experience this is your spot.
I witnessed the warmth of the community at a dedication ceremony for Seahorse National Park at Sweetings Pond in Hatchet Bay, an event more than a decade in the making. Sweetings Pond is a landlocked lagoon connected invisibly to the ocean and has the world’s largest concentration of sea horses.
(Bahamas National Trust)
Sweetings Pond is a large, landlocked saltwater pond in Hatchet Bay, Eleuthera, that is now officially the home of Seahorse National Park.
“Eventually, the goal is to make Seahorse National Park a large tourist attraction, offering guided tours and providing an area for artisans to sell their products, which will in turn boost Eleuthera’s economy,” said Ethan Freid of The Bahamas National Trust.
While these are grand plans, a recurring theme I heard throughout the day was that the community’s input was vital because its members have a stake in the park. Environmental protection was another recurring theme. Residents want to make Eleuthera accessible but not destroy its beauty by having tourists overrun their landmarks. So, balance and smart planning is at the forefront of officials’ minds.
After the ceremony it was back to The Cove for the reception. No ordinary event, it took place at “The Point,” an open-air bar and lounge area located on a cliff with gorgeous views of the north and south beaches. It was there that I chatted with Dr. Kenneth Romer, Bahamas deputy director general of tourism, who shared the state of tourism in the country.
(Tripadvisor.com)
Views from Queen’s Bath.
“The Bahamas is committed to preserving ecotourism initiatives along with sustainable tourism, and we’re cautious with preserving our climate. Each destination in The Bahamas has its own unique flavor,” he said. “Eleuthera offers a unique and authentic experience; it’s a destination that provides a sense of culture, diverse product offerings, easy access for foreign airlines and unparalleled beauty.”
Speaking of beauty, there is no leaving Eleuthera without visiting Queen’s Bath, about half a mile south of Glass Window Bridge. The best views of this awe-inspiring natural wonder require a short hike on honeycomb rocks, but when you get there, wow!
It’s best described as a series of soaking pools with water coming directly from the Atlantic Ocean. You can hike down and soak or stay up top and take in the spectacular views and beauty of Mother Nature. Experiencing them is a perfect way to end any visit to Eleuthera. It’s like discovering a hidden gem, much like this small island.