Thai Red sauce on swordfish_with extra spicet shrimp on basil rice_IMG_2432.jpg

(SID HOELTZELL @ MIAMI 2023)

The delectable and drool-worthy final dish.

Add a Savory Thai Dish to Your Holiday Table

Spear the fish yourself or buy it at the store

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My childhood and adult life are filled with memories of catching and spearing with my brother, family and friends. Small tommy cods, stripers and flounder were caught in northern waters. Mahi-mahi, yellowtail, yellowfin tuna, hogfish and swordfish have been the flavors of my adult Floridian salt life. No matter the fish, I have learned how to catch them, properly fillet/prepare them, and to chef them to the table for tasting.

Though I planned to do a borsht this issue, my editor asked for soupy stuff to boil over into January. This month’s column focuses on something you can quickly prepare for your “Feast of Seven Fishes” come Christmastime. You could also experiment by using thick, firm cuts of mahi, grouper or cod, but this version is guided by “the sword.”

Many folks here in Florida know all too well the joys of fishing and diving on or in the ocean, which come with a rote of preparation-hard work-cleanup. But despite the cost of gas, boat prep, cleanup and travel times, fishing and diving are still glorious sports. There is something joyous about the adrenaline rush you get when spearing a 12-pound red grouper under a ledge in a ripping current!

Once, I begrudgingly cut my speargun line while diving as two Bahamian blacktip sharks were rushing in to snatch my bleeding 30″ African pompano. I often recall that event as a reminder to stay safe during future adventures. Respectfully, my group and I always keep in mind that fishing laws are meant to keep stocks healthy for everyone.

Many tasty fish have blessed me by being impaled by my 48″ triple-banded killer AB Biller speargun. My mantra for proper spearfishing has always been to dispatch the kill shot aiming for the “cabeza” or direct spearing through the eyes. Yes, in one eye and out the other. No comments about the killing, please; we’re fortunate to not have to dispatch a massive cow for our steaks, nor chickens for their delicious breasts, thighs and glorious feet. I honor every catch by miserly filleting to never waste any flesh.

I will always pass on spearing a fish in the body and wait for the head shot, because it’s wasteful to ruin the flesh after filleting out the bleed area. I once waited and chased an impressive grouper for so long, I finally made my shot when it turned toward me with its mouth wide open. Lucky me, bad for the fish. But when I do choose to let a fish get away, that’s good for both of our future adventures in the turquoise waters of Florida.

When I learn a method to prepare a great fish dish, I’m all in. I’ve often used curries with chicken and shrimp; they don’t break apart when slowly simmering in a sauced, spicy Thai dish. I initially planned to use thick grouper fillets for this recipe, but when I spied the swordfish steak I made a savory decision. I picked them up at Don Camarón Seafood Market in Miami. They even had the “pink” steaks.

The lemon grass came from my backyard garden. I added my cilantro after the dish was almost fully cooked; it wilts less that way and also gives the recipe a stronger taste. There’s a joy I experience while chopping cilantro or cooking with a dash of sesame oil … I'm smellin’ what I am tellin’.

CHEF SID’S RED THAI SWORDFISH

Serves: 2

Prep time: 30-35 minutes

INGREDIENTS

·     2 swordfish steaks, about 1 1/2 pounds, skinned and cut into 1″ cubes

·     2 tablespoons + dash olive oil

·     Small bunch lemon grass, crushed/smashed with side of knife blade

·     1/4 cup finely julienned red pepper

·     1/4 cup chopped cilantro

·     1/4 cup finely julienned fresh ginger

·     1 small green jalapeño, seeded and finely chopped, about a heaping tablespoon or more to taste

·     1 garlic clove smashed and finely chopped

·     2 tablespoons finely chopped chives

·     Dash sesame oil

·     14-ounce can quality coconut milk

·     2 ounces fish sauce (add more or less to taste)

·     1 teaspoon ground coriander (add more or less to taste)

·     2 ounces Thai Red curry paste (you can find it at Publix)

PREPARATION

·     In large pan lightly sauté swordfish cubes in olive oil on two opposing sides – just two! – then remove fish from pan and set aside to prevent it from drying out. Remember: Sauté on two opposite sides only or you’ll overcook the fish.

·     Place crushed lemon grass in same pan and sauté several minutes to extract flavor – I add some water to steam off – then remove and discard stalks.

·     Add red pepper, cilantro, ginger, jalapeño, garlic and chives to pan with a dash each olive and sesame oil and sauté; add coconut milk and simmer.

·     Add fish sauce, coriander and curry paste to taste – there’s a lot of salt in that paste! – then simmer to reduce until it thickens into a creamy consistency.

·     Serve with side of jasmine rice, making sure to chiffonade and mix 1/4 cup fresh basil leaves into the hot rice before serving. I plate mine with spicy Key West shrimp on top. Wash it all down with a classic chilled rosé.

Next month I’ll bring you my Uncle Kurt’s beet borscht with a twist – you’ll never toss your beet tops again!

Sid Hoeltzell is an award-winning Miami-based commercial food and beverage photographer and former “MasterChef 9” contestant. He has completed more than 450 commissioned works for Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, teaches food photography seminars and is a preferred fine art photographer for Christie’s, Sotheby’s and private collections.