People down here need a friend like Sam. Not for the irregular, “Did you hear about this new barbecue place?” lunch dates, nor the occasional, “So these old fellers I know bought a bunch of sailboats at an auction” outings. No, it’s because sometimes Sam shows up in your yard with a pot and says, “There was this native plant sale, but heck if I have room to plant this. You want an elderberry?” And sure enough, a little water a couple times a week and the thing is suddenly taller than your head and looking like it might spit out a blossom or two.
You didn’t even know they grew down here. Elderflowers, elderberries … those are things from Ukrainian delis, IKEA checkout lines, and German aunties, aren’t they? A flavor from somewhere else. A nostalgic taste from a gentler time and more genteel place.
Sam doesn’t really know what memories elderflowers and elderberries could bring up, or maybe he does, but the specifics don’t matter as much as the basics: start with the right seedling, add a little sunlight, some regular watering, and patience, and soon enough magic will transpire. Simplicity and patience are Old World values, and the secret to many an Old World spirit.
(Photo:St-Germain/Makiyo LIo)
Though complex in flavor, nearly everything you’re tasting in St-Germain comes from elderflowers.
Take a neutral spirit, add some aromatic plants, let them sit, then let them sit some more, and ultimately you’ve got an infusion worth savoring. This is how gin is made, how Campari is made, how vermouth is made. If you want to include the wood of aging barrels as “aromatic plants,” then it’s also how whiskies, aged rums, and añejo tequilas are made. In other words, these are the building blocks of nearly every classic cocktail.
Miami might like to think of itself as a city that never stops going, where the rhythm is always gonna get you, but anyone who walks outside in August or September will get an involuntary lesson in “no lo trates” – take it low, slow, and shady until you can get back in the A/C again. Hurrying just makes you feel hotter.
And when that elderberry finally sprouts some elderflowers, what could you do with them? Let the folks in the cooler climes zip down to their corner shops for imported floral cordials; a simple, patient Biscayne tippler can wait for the good things right here.
“FLORIDA” MEANS “FLOWERY”
(Photo: Jeannie Balfour)
As Una with begonias, so is Kingston Imperial with hibiscus and St-Germain with elderflower.
Sam could tell you that the Florida elderberry, also called the American elderberry, has a doubly confusing Latin name: Sambucus canadensis. It’s misleading two different ways: It’s considered a Florida native, so it’s not especially Canadian; and it’s not actually an ingredient in sambuca. That liqueur is made primarily from anise, which has a syrupy-sweet licorice quality that’s not floral at all. How that name happened, no one is really sure, but it seems like today’s sambuca descends from Italian liqueurs that were first made in the port city of Civitavecchia in the mid-1800s as the favored drinks of anise-vendors with the family name Sambuchelli, or “Elderberry.”
The plant, however, is one of those specimens like African marula berries or French grapes that has its own naturally occurring yeasts. Put elderflowers in a bottle with a little sugar, and you’ll have elderflower wine, a traditional, fizzy, very mildly alcoholic cordial that goes back to ancient times.
Today’s drinkers prefer it in the Hugo Spritz, probably the most on-trend cocktail of the last few years. The key ingredient is St-Germain, a liqueur made from elderflowers.
St-Germain’s Miami ambassador Ysa Rossi
“In 2007, third-generation distiller Robert J. Cooper introduced St-Germain as the world’s first commercialized elderflower liqueur, inspired by the unique flavor of the elderflower at a London bar,” explains St-Germain’s Miami ambassador Ysa Rossi. “But St-Germain gets its name from Saint-Germain-des-Prés, which is a legendary Parisian neighborhood long celebrated for its free spirit and artistic energy.”
Each bottle of St-Germain contains as many as 1,000 elderflowers, and draws on the French expertise of its master blender and master of botanicals.
“Elderflowers are hand-harvested during their brief late-May bloom, in the cool, early-morning hours when the blossoms are just opening and their aroma and flavor are at their peak,” says Rossi.
The process is meticulous, with flowers picked at full bloom and beginning maceration within 24 hours to preserve the fragrance and capture their peak aroma, which brings with it a uniquely complex flavor.
“From pear, honeysuckle, and citrus to hints of lychee and stone fruit, this complexity is entirely derived from the blossoms themselves which gives St-Germain its distinctive depth and aroma without the need for additional flavorings,” Rossi explained. “That complexity is why St-Germain has earned the nickname ‘bartender’s best friend’ in the industry. A splash of St-Germain can round out almost any cocktail, pairing effortlessly with a wide range of spirits, from gin and tequila to whiskey and rum, making it a staple on back bars worldwide.”
(Photo: Jeannie Balfour)
St-Germain, Kingston Imperial, and Una Vodka are all floral spirits with ties to Miami.
Despite the pan-European heritage, the light, floral liqueur is distributed by Miami-based spirits icon Bacardi.
“In Miami’s rum-forward cocktail culture, St-Germain’s floral brightness adds a fresh, aromatic lift to tropical serves, such as elderflower mojitos,” said Rossi.
And, of course, the Hugo Spritz shows up on menus from 1 Hotel and Carpaccio to Fontainebleau, Luca Osteria, Mongos, and more. With just five ingredients and a tall glass of ice, you can even cool down deliciously with one at home.
GLOBAL TRENDS, MIAMI ROOTS
The movement toward sippable botanical spirits isn’t just fun and flowers. It also makes good business sense.
(Photo: Paramour Apéritifs)
Bottled by Big Cypress, Paramour’s Elderflower liqueur is all natural, for more mindful drinking.
Miami-Dade’s own Big Cypress Distillery is part of the action as the producer and bottler for Paramour Apéritif-Liqueurs, which includes an Elderflower spirit in addition to blends like Lavender-Yuzu and Cara-Cara Orange.
The label was founded with the idea of providing a botanical beverage that was all-natural and mild enough for thoughtful sipping. It’s more about gently cruising out with floral flavor and fun than lifting any number of sheets to the wind with all possible haste.
“The low-alcohol movement is gaining traction as consumers look for ways to enjoy drinking experiences without the heavy effects of full-proof spirits, evident in the growing categories of aperitifs, vermouths, and botanical-based spirits who offer complexity and sophistication without the high alcohol content,” said Paramour founder Raquel Tavares. “Apéritifs, in particular, have seen a renaissance. Consumers are drawn to these lower-proof spirits as they align with the growing interest in mindful drinking, offering an alternative to hard liquor without compromising on taste or experience.”
The gentle-yet-uncompromising approach has yielded rewards for Paramour, which this year earned Double Gold at the SIP Awards and Gold and Silver at the Bartender Spirits Awards.
(Photo:St-Germain/Getty, Craig Barritt)
The Hugo Spritz, made with St-Germain, prosecco, mint, and lime, has become the coolest drink for the hottest months.
The same floral aesthetic drives other Miami-based spirits brands as well. Una Vodka (profiled in this column in August 2024) spreads flower power with a unique formula based on a begonia infusion that imparts a delicate flavor to a lower-than-usual-proof vodka.
And a new brand, Kingston Imperial, is flying the floral flag with a liqueur based on a Jamaican favorite, sorrel punch, a traditional hibiscus-and-spice-based drink (previously mentioned in this column in December 2020).
ST-GERMAIN HUGO SPRITZ
1½ oz St-Germain elderflower liqueur
2 oz Martini prosecco
2 oz sparkling water
Sprig of mint (for garnish)
Lime wedge (for garnish)
Put ice in a chilled tall glass, pour ingredients over ice, stir once, garnish, and sip.
Grant Balfour is a Miami Beach native, writer, editor, traveler, musician, bon vivant and our official Biscayne Tippler.
