Duckhorn-Vineyards_Lifestyle-6.jpg

(Duckhorn Vineyards)

Lauren Catalano, Marketing Director for Duckhorn Vineyards, says, "People aren’t just 'coming back' to Merlot, they’re seeking it out with intention."

Merlot Reconsidered

Don’t call it a comeback: Steady producers, a new generation, and the reverse of a curse against a classic grape

by ,

It was one simple phrase said by Paul Giamatti’s character, Miles Raymond, in the 2004 movie, “Sideways,” that sealed the fate of Merlot for years to come. Considered one of the most famous movie quotes about wine, and one of the most impactful quotes to influence the popularity (and demise) of a product, Pinot-loving Miles screams in frustration at the prospect of having to drink a wine he loathes, not for its taste or quality, but for personal reasons related to his ex-wife, “No, if anyone orders Merlot, I'm leaving. I am not drinking any f’ing Merlot!”

And that was that. For years to come, Merlot vines were uprooted, sales slumped, and Pinot Noir became the grape of choice for an entire generation. It’s called the “Sideways Effect,” and it changed the wine industry in a big way.

Now that 20+ years have passed since one movie quote changed the way people drink Merlot, I think we all can agree that the grape got an undeserved snub. It’s one of the most planted wine grapes in the world (still) and a blending partner in some of the top wines globally. Ironically, the wine Miles drinks at the end of the movie is a 1961 Château Cheval Blanc, which is a blend of Cabernet Franc and… Merlot.

ALIVE AND THRIVING

For a grape that supposedly fell from grace, Merlot seems remarkably unbothered. Across regions, producers who never abandoned it are now watching interest rise again, thanks to clever packaging, shifting palates, and a new generation without any “Sideways”-era baggage.

In Santa Barbara, California, Paradise Springs Winery has embraced the Hollywood lore of the grape by making its own wine called F’ing Merlot.

“We wanted to pay homage to the history of Santa Barbara’s wine industry and what happened there, and how it impacted the world,” said CEO and founder Kirk Wiles. “We took a risk; it was edgy. But the younger generation thought it was cool.”

Kirk mentioned that the grape is very important not only at his Santa Barbara winery, but also at Paradise Springs Winery in Virginia.

“It’s one of the three Bordeaux grapes that does well here (in Virginia,)” said Kirk. “It’s a part of all of our Bordeaux-style blends, and we also make a single varietal Merlot.”

At The Lenz Winery on Long Island, Merlot isn’t experiencing a revival; it’s part of the estate’s identity, with three tiers regularly produced. Dorothy-Dean Thomas, vice president of sales and operations, said Lenz has long bottled “world-class Merlot” and its Old Vines Merlot performs impressively in double-blind tastings and reviews against top international wines. She’s noticed that younger, story-driven drinkers are increasingly open to the grape, often surprised by how “food-friendly and multi-dimensional” cool-climate Merlot can be.

Over at Wölffer Estate, also on Long Island, Merlot has long been a foundational red.

There is definitely less of a stigma… our Merlots are more in demand,” said partner and winemaker Roman Roth, adding that their long hang times and Atlantic breezes create “ripe fruit and depth with layers of tannins and fine hints of acidity,” giving the wines both food-friendliness and incredible longevity, “perfect to age for 20 or 25 years.” Roth also points to rising curiosity among guests, especially when they learn that Wölffer’s most prized red wines are made from Merlot.

In Napa Valley, Duckhorn Vineyards, the torchbearer for American Merlot, has seen renewed excitement at the luxury level.

“Consumers are discovering or rediscovering Merlot’s elegance, structure, and incredible versatility, and they’re looking for trusted producers who’ve championed the grape from the beginning,” said marketing director Lauren Catalano, citing recent 12-week data showing 7% growth for its $25 Merlot and 2% growth in dollar sales for the $45 category overall. Perhaps more telling is her sense of the cultural shift.

“The ‘Sideways effect’ lasted a long time, but the conversation has completely changed,” said Catalano.

What remained after those years, she explained, was a “natural selection” that left only the best sites and most dedicated producers farming Merlot at the highest level.

“What we are seeing is newer wine drinkers having those 'ah ha!' moments with Merlot, where they taste a wine and discover how much depth, structure, and sense of place it can express.”

MIAMI WINE PROFESSIONALS WEIGH IN

Shawn Zylberberg, founder and CEO of Zonda Wine Services in Miami, said the renewed interest in Merlot isn’t surprising when you look beyond the old stereotypes.

“Merlot has been flying under the radar, but it’s finding new hot spots in places like Veneto, Friuli-Venezia Giulia, the Okanagan Valley, and the coolest regions of Chile and Argentina,” he said.

And the grape’s top-tier pedigree has never changed.

“If you look at the most sought-after bottles in the world — Petrus, Masseto, Pavie, Le Pin — Merlot is right there at the top.”

While in the classroom, Alessandra Esteves, co-founder and director of Wine Education at Florida Wine Academy, sees that appreciation firsthand.

“Earlier this year, I did two classes on Pomerol, and guests were surprised to taste wines almost 100% Merlot,” she said.

At another Super Tuscan event, the group’s favorite wine was the lone 100% Merlot.

“That shows how people appreciate Merlot but were misguided by previous information,” said Esteves.

So, if Merlot had the chance to answer for itself after decades of misconceptions, it might borrow a line from LL Cool J: “Don’t call it a comeback, I been here for years…”

Jacqueline Coleman is a wine and travel writer and Star Wine List’s ambassador in Miami. She is a contributor to Luxury Guide USA magazine, a regular guest host on Linda Gassenheimer’s “Food, News & Views” podcast, and founder of BYOBMiami.com.