Biscayne Bouillabaisse With a Side of Mama Sid’s Bubert

Again, my history is revealed through my love of cooking and my family recipes – Latvian roots sprouting in America are likely aware that our original moniker was Helcels. I do revel in seafood recipes, and this time it’s my take on French bouillabaisse with Florida fish flare, ending with a classic Baltic recipe for bubert. The latter is a creamy-sweet dessert that’s one of those “if you kids behave, I’ll make it” treat. But first, bouillabaisse.

Local, local, local! Key West pinkies, Sebastian Inlet littleneck clams, Casablanca’s local Miami stone crab and fresh flaky fillet of Biscayne grouper, with not-from-the-neighborhood Prince Edward Island (PEI) black mussels a required throw-in. Turquoise-green New Zealand mollusks – also far from local – add great flavor and visual appeal. The optional addition of a few baby octopuses is a welcome bastardization, as they add a touch of the sublime to this rustic French creation. And while I love the original Julia Child version of the dish, I decided not to prepare the classic accompaniment of rouille for the crusty bread. What the heck, you’re getting my Mom’s bubert recipe!

We are blessed to live in a state surrounded by water and with access to exceptional seafood (as long as the seas don’t rise in my lifetime and the water doesn’t boil up too quickly, because that’s for the future to determine). For those that look up Julia’s recipe notes, you’ll read that fish heads, shrimp shells and other remains can be pitched into the stock so as to add superior flavor. Me? I ran out of fish stock, but a bottle of clam juice from the grocer sufficed. Sorry about the cop out; I didn’t save the water from the last time I steamed a fat Maine lobster. When you do remember to reserve that great liquid loaded with the floaty white meat proteins and tomalley juices, well – that is flavorful beyond belief. I will really slob out when people have a great two- to three-pounder and refuse to eat that sacred green fudge, tomalley. It’s like the foie gras of the northern lobster. It is a shame that our Caribbean cousins lack such treasure within.

Simplicity and layering are the key to making this savory dish. I combine the ingredients in a sequence so that the fish fillet ends up on the top layer last, and the crustacea and mollusks are on the bottom going in first. This keeps the fish from breaking apart. I very much enjoy the sweetness of fresh Key West wild-caught shrimp. (I took the heads off this go-round, but you can leave them on.) Casablanca stone crabs are always spot on and Sebastian Inlet clams are usually easily found (but Publix had the freshest clams this time).

I generally use the clams and mussels, but often rely solely on those colorful New Zealand babies. They aren’t too expensive and available frozen at Wild Forks. I always use the baby farmed octopus, and sprinkle the top of the stew with parsley for looks. Who likes to see yellowed simmered out parsley? My recipe instructions note a reminder to “seed” your tomatoes as well.  If you behave, the bubert is quite the reward with a glass of Lillet with an orange twist on the rocks.

Some thoughts … The classic serving of bouillabaisse dictates having fresh crusty bread to soak up  the liquids. The traditional “rouille” for a spread on top is a simpatico touch, but I didn’t want to get too fancy-schmancy. For me, this gastronomic experience truly is about what goes into the stew! Gathering all the ingredients from local vendors has become smarter and much tastier in the long run. Remember to arrive at the farmers markets early for good selections. Traveling to certain vendors can sometimes be a pain in the keister, but I now wax nostalgic about going out to the Redlands/Homestead for Knaus Berry Farm strawberries, cinnamon buns and pies. Speaking of strawberries …

I went to Publix and found some very fresh ruby jewels. Sizemore Farms was the vendor, and I pulled out a huge Siamese twin of a strawberry – a monster! I hope the fields aren’t too close to the Turkey Point Nuclear site or sharing a water source. Sizemore Strawberries, I see what you did there. Very subtle. Shop local, act loco, eat local. Sounds about right.

Thinking of my childhood, I was blessed and believe I turned out respectful  and polite (I still say please and thank you). However, money was, as people say, tight. But when we “no-neck monsters” behaved really well – coming home from a day playing in the woods without too many found animals, reptiles, bee stings or briar scratches – my dear mom would delight us with Latvian and German treats. Homemade sugar cookies, great apple tarts (from the tree in our backyard) and other simple yet gourmand-worthy creations. Bubert was one of those treats. Fun fact: the English dub it flummery (sounds like a bowel problem to me). My mom made it for the good times, and always with a compote of fresh strawberries on top. I loved it then and I love it now, as it elicits a Zen-like state of mind in which I reflect on my personal history. Passing this along for your entertainment and, as always, I hope you’re smellin’ what I’m tellin’!

BISCAYNE BOUILLABAISSE

Serves: 4-6

Prep time: 20 minutes

Cook time: 25 minutes

INGREDIENTS

• 4 cloves garlic, crushed
• 1 cup coarsely chopped white onion
• 1 cup fresh leek stalks, cut wide at an angle
• 1 cup fresh fennel stalk, cut wide at an angle, plus several fronds of the dill-looking sprigs (I always add a lot of this licorice-flavored veggie.)
• 1/2 cup extra virgin olive oil
• 2 quarts water
• Small bottle clam juice (Or, if you know better, use your stash of reserved lobster water.)
• 3 vine-ripened tomatoes, seeds removed and coarsely chopped
• 1 teaspoon of real Spanish saffron (Not the cheap imitation stuff made from wood shavings; go online and pay the piper.)
• 1 tablespoon sea salt or anchovy salt to taste
• 3-4 sprigs of fresh basil (You can also add fresh thyme sprigs in moderation; I avoid rosemary, ’cuz she don’t like me no more!)
• A good handful of fresh parsley, divided (Cook with half and sprinkle the last over the stew before serving.)
• 1+ pound of fresh clams/mussels (Sebastian Inlet clams and PEI mussels work well together; the plus sign means add more if the desire strikes you.)
• 1 pound meaty fish cut in large chunky pieces (Local grouper, mahi-mahi – remove the red bloodline! – cod and halibut all work, but avoid yellowtail.)
• 1+ pound Key West pink shrimp or large shell-on shrimp of your choosing
• 5 baby octopuses
• 1 long, wide slice of orange peel (Hold back on the zest or juice kiddos!)
• Crusty loaf of bread, baguette preferred (The sourdough trend does not apply herein.)

PREPARATION

• In a tall, 8-quart pot over low heat, sauté garlic, onions, leeks and sliced fennel (but not the fronds) in olive oil until just bright and soft, about two minutes. Do not caramelize!
• Add water, clam juice (extra stocky flavor), tomatoes, saffron, salt, herbs, fennel fronds and parsley; bring to a simmer but do not boil (Seriously; this is very important.) Simmer 15 minutes.
• Conflicting culinary theory alert! Some chefs will take this simmering mixture and drain it through a sieve to remove the solids, but no way do I want to waste all that delish goodness. You can be fancy followers of Julia Child, but I opt for leaving the goods in there.
• Gently add seafood to pot in layers; don’t just slosh it all in, don’t be a beast. Really play nice and layer. First the clams and mussels. Wait about 3 minutes, then add shrimp. Wait a few more minutes and add the octopus. Wait another minute, then very lightly,  con cuidado, add the fish … that’s perfect!
• Once the clams and mussels open up you’re ready to serve.
• Sprinkle individual bowls with remaining parsley and have that crust bread at the ready to soak up all that deliciousness. Some people like adding a splash of sherry into  their bouillabaisse, and that would not hurt at all.
• Open up a great chilled white wine, sit down and enjoy!

MAMA SID’S BUBERT

Prep and cooking time: 40 minutes.

It is fun to watch the process with guests (especially when everyone’s hanging in the kitchen sloshing pinot grigio).

INGREDIENTS

• 1 quart fresh strawberries
• 1/2 cup + 1/4 cup brown sugar
• 2 tablespoons cornstarch
• 4 eggs, separated (see if you can use your fingers to do the job right) and left in fridge to chill
• 1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract (or fresh vanilla bean scrapings)
• 2 cups whole milk (Not skim, not almond.)
• 3 heaping tablespoons farina, cream of wheat or cream of rice
• Pinch salt
• Dash cream of tartar

PREPARATION

• Clean and wash strawberries well, but do not dry them; you’ll need that moisture for the next step. Slice each berry into 3-4 slices.
• Place strawberry slices and 1/2 cup sugar in a saucepan and sauté over low heat until berries are lightly cooked and a thick sauce has formed. (Maybe add a few tablespoons of Grand Marnier if the kids aren’t around.) The thicker the sauce the better, so now’s the time to add your cornstarch, if you need it.
• Remove berry compote from heat and allow to chill in the fridge. A warm sauce will deflate your bubert.
• In a large, deep bowl, add egg yolks, 1/4 cup sugar and vanilla extract (or vanilla beans); whisk/beat until mixture becomes lighter and more voluminous and set aside.
• In a medium saucepan, bring milk to a boil and add farina, cream of wheat or cream of rice, stirring constantly; cook until mixture is very thick. Lower heat to low, allow to cool lightly and then add egg yolk mixture. You must stir constantly to prevent mixture from getting too thick or burning; it should have a custard-like consistency. Overcooking results in something like scrambled eggs, and that is not good. Remove from heat and let cool.
• Place chilled egg whites into a large bowl and hand whisk (or “cheat” like I did and use an electric hand mixer). Add a pinch of salt and a dash of cream of tartar, to keep the meringue tight and light.
• Fold egg white meringue gently into the cooled egg yolk-farina mixture. Be very gentle – finesse is better than force.
• Serve bubert with chilled strawberry compote spooned on top. A glass of Lillet with a twist of orange peel will lubricate your flavor finalé. Act happy, like a kid who’s been rewarded for not being a brat and  kissing Aunt Gloria goodbye (even though she always wears that strange perfume).

Sid Hoeltzell is an award-winning Miami-based commercial food and beverage photographer and former “MasterChef” contestant. He has completed more than 450 commissioned works for Royal Caribbean Cruise Lines, teaches food photography seminars, and is a preferred fine art photographer for Christie’s, Sotheby’s and private collections.