Mangos, Chutney and the Savory Universe

On the top of my Floridian asset list, the mango is the most precious of gifts. I have traveled greatly throughout this grand state – though I still haven’t found the Fountain of Youth – as well as the Caribbean, Gulf countries and several ports in South America, where mangoes are ever present and a blessing from God.

About them oranges … isn’t the mango our second state fruit? This time of year, Mangifera indica are either going to be a fruit to enjoy or a plague to get off your lawn before all those insects, animals and such swarm the fallen remains to indulge in their own food orgy.

With more than 30 varieties, if you’re blessed enough to have mangoes about, go to town. When my friends Ross

and Holly used to live in MiMo, we would always spend a few weekends just picking, cutting and bagging those fallen beauties for the freezer while creating the ultimate poolside treat: mango daiquiris! When in the pool, drink ’em until the glass is empty, remembering that while there may not be any heat stroke to worry about (great drinks keep one hydrated), there will always be the drive home.

As a food and beverage photographer of 40 years, I have often challenged my food stylists to come up with creative ways to chop, slice and dice, and carve out unique mango beverage condiments that look new. But when it comes to food condiments, the sky’s the limit for Hadens, Carabaos and the like. You’ll have a blast trying to figure out where the seed is when cutting up the tiny cubes for this recipe. But preparing my chutney is truly a Zen episode for me in the kitchen.

Right now, the tropical Fruit & Spice Park is a super place to ramble through, where you’ll find several cultivars full of

ripe fruit hanging about – be warned: it’s a look, do not pick kind of place – and at the front desk there are always samples for tasting. When I find one that is peachy fiber free, sweet and rich in aroma, I have asked for the seeds. There was a time when I would save my piles of seeds and toss them out the window when cruising westward across Route 41 going to Everglades City or Naples. I felt like “Johnny Mango-Seed,” hoping to populate the sides of the road so that years later I could reap the benefits of what I had sown. I gave that up after finding out what the farmers markets were producing this time of the year.

Chutney, as is happens, is credited to the land of curries – India. And the country is also credited as the region that gave the world our beloved mangoes. When I lived in New York City I would follow the old schnozola down to the East Village to get my fix of curries and Punjabi delectables, and there was always a chutney at the table.

I am writing this as a recipe “murabba” (read: marmalade) meant for garnishing the upcoming summer feasts of grilled poultry, meat and fish; next month is my BBQ marinade for skirt steak and glaze for grilled wings, so keep an eye out. One can alter and experiment as one sees fit – consider having a threesome … as in three distinctively different curries, you naughty thinkers, you – but this is the basic easy-peasy fix for a fruity savory touch of goodness you can caress your summer meals with. It’s great on your morning oatmeal, too.

Vinegar is an important part of the chutney. You could simply add the straight boring white stuff, but I recommend going natural and organic. Even use the variety that Eve inspired when she got naked in front of Adam and gave him a bite. I do advise staying away from the balsamic stuff. The good thing is, you’ll soon be smellin’ what I’m tellin’!

RECIPE NAME

Prep time & yield: Depending on you knife skills and how much you want to make, this recipe takes about two hours and gives you about 9-10 pint jars that should get you through June before you have to make more.

MUST HAVES

·     10-12 quart tall cooking pot (Also for the finalé, when you process the jars in a cooking bath for longer storage.)

·     Sharp paring knife

·     Sharp vegetable peeler

·     12 16-ounce mason jars (You may end up using only nine or 10.)

INGREDIENTS

·     1/2 small white onion, chopped

·     2 green , finely chopped with seeds and sautéed (sweated in water beforehand)

·     6 ounces golden raisins, finely chopped

·     4 ounces chopped dates, finely chopped

·     1 1/2 ounces mustard seeds

·     Zest of 1 whole lemon

·     1 1/2 cups apple cider vinegar

·     1 cup apple or white grape juice

·     2 cloves garlic, finely chopped and sautéed (sweated in water beforehand)

·     1 teaspoon kosher salt

·     1 pound brown sugar

·     3 ounces crystallized ginger, finely chopped (I love the Badia brand.)

·     1 cinnamon stick

·     5 cloves (Don’t use more; just a hint will do.)

·     12-14 firm yet ripe mangoes, peeled and chopped into 1/4-inch cubes (Hadens are the ones I get from the markets because of their uniformity and firm fleshiness.)

·     1 cup Grand Marnier (for medicinal and preservative purposes)

PREPARATION

·     Sauté onion in small pot until clear and set aside; do the same for the jalapeños.

·     Into the large tall pot, add raisins, dates, mustard seeds, lemon zest, vinegar, fruit juice, garlic, onions, 1 teaspoon jalapeño (save the rest to split between two specially marked mason jars), kosher salt, sugar, ginger, cinnamon stick and cloves; bring to a light boil for about a minute.

·     Add mango and begin a 30-minute slow simmer on low-medium heat to slightly “cook” mixture; add Grand Marnier … and have a sip yourself. Keep stirring often so as not to burn this great stuff. There will be a point where it gets thicker and then you’re done. NOTE: Don’t use high heat or the mixture will fall apart instead of achieving a marmalade-like consistency.

·     Now it’s time for the water bath!

·     In two jars, place remaining jalapeño to mark those as the ones you’ll give to a pair of special friends who you know like it hot.

·     Fill all 10 jars to within about 1/2″ from the lip, and give the two jalapeño-spiked jars a good mix to evenly distribute peppers.

·     Clean pot, fill with water and bring to a boil.

·     Place lids on jars and lightly tighten, then immerse jars into boiling water for about 10 minutes.

·     Remove jars, let cool and spread the joy!