Sip the Edge Off February’s Chill

February is the nadir of winter, when the chill wind penetrates even South Floridians’ layered sweaters, bringing with it wishes for a little something to warm the blood. Luckily for the Biscayne tippler, the Corridor is home to a world-class tea importer, Mike Ortiz of JoJo Tea. A profound missionary for Camellia sinensis in all its many refined forms, Ortiz has taught some of our best bartenders how to use this soothing brew in cocktails that are a cut above.

Ortiz came to tea from a spiritual place, working at a Buddhist temple where its mindful preparation was almost a meditative act.

“In China, what separates high-quality tea from average is ‘hui gan’ or ‘returning sweetness,’” Ortiz explained. “Good tea leaves a thicker layer of oil over tongue, so that each sip will paint a layer of flavor that’s subtly different and that comes out as you exhale.”

This “returning sweetness” is what Ortiz looks for when blending spirits with tea.

“The fumes of alcohol give a nice retronasal finish on the exhale after you sip the drink,” he said. A tea-based cocktail makes one pleasantly aware of the act of breathing.

Ortiz said crisp, lighter varieties of green or white tea blend well with white rum and dry vodka, while more oxidized teas like oolong, black and dark, fermented pu erh play well with darker spirits.

“Oxidized teas have roasted, caramelized sugars that can stand up to cognac or oak-finished spirits,” he explained. “They share a nice, woody complexity and a thick, malty finish.”

But the tea-based cocktail that Ortiz finds most fascinating uses black tea in a cool, not hot, drink that goes back centuries. Clarified milk punch appears in Benjamin Franklin’s writings. It takes a little preparation, but the end result is well worth the time in the kitchen.

“The milk solids take out the bitter flavors, so you’re left with a drink that’s perfectly clear in the cup and creamy on the tongue,” said Ortiz, “with a rich mouth feel that can stand up to umami and savory flavors.”

JOJO KING JUICE

INGREDIENTS

• 2 oranges and 2 lemons

• Dusting + 1 pint sugar

• 2 quarts whole milk

• 32 grams loose-leaf JoJo Masala chai tea

• 1 pint water

• 10 grams JoJo Beverly Ceylon black tea

• 1 pint pineapple juice

• 1 pint rum (Ortiz likes to mix equal parts Banks 5 and Coconut Cartel.)

• 16 ounces cognac

• 1 pint fresh lemon juice

• 1 teaspoon soy sauce or pinch salt

• Fresh nutmeg, ground

METHOD

• Make a flavorful citrus syrup called “oleo saccharum” the day before. Peel oranges and lemons carefully, avoiding the white pith and keeping just the bright skin. Lightly coat in sugar, then grind slightly in a mortar and pestle just enough to release some aromatic oil. Place in a sealed container and refrigerate overnight.

• On the day you will be serving the cocktails, add milk to a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Add chai tea and any other spices you’d like to include, to personalize your brew. Simmer for 30 minutes, then turn off the heat.

• While milk simmers and cools, make a pineapple-black tea syrup. Bring a pint of water to a light, rolling boil, turn off heat and add black tea. Steep five minutes, then strain. Mix brewed tea, pineapple juice and 1 pint sugar. Gently heat until sugar melts. This will yield 1 quart of syrup.

• In large bowl, pour pineapple-black tea syrup over prepared oleo saccharum. Add rum and cognac. Top off with lemon juice. This should yield a half-gallon of concentrated, acidic cocktail. Finish with soy sauce or salt for some umami depth.

• Pour warm, milky chai into cocktail bowl. The milk will start to curdle. Let it sit for at least 30 minutes, but not more than a few hours. Pour through a fine metal strainer then a coffee filter to remove all curdled milk fat and “really get some clarity in the cup.”

• Serve over ice and garnish with fresh nutmeg.