The Swimwear-Catwalk Comeback in Miami Beach

Some say the comeback is always greater than the setback, and naysayers need only look at the seemingly unstoppable multibillion-dollar swimwear industry for the proof, especially in South Florida.

Miami Swim Week, the largest swim- and resortwear fashion event in the world, returned with in-person runway shows last month in Miami Beach – and the world took note. It was the first live full-capacity fashion event to take place since COVID-19 first hit, and Florida’s lenient pandemic-era restrictions allowed for thousands of showgoers.

As the global fashion market slowly rebounds after significant losses in 2020, the swimwear industry is maintaining steady growth both financially and otherwise, with the Magic City at its core.

“It's almost a $22 billion industry, which is amazing because when you look at the fashion industry, it did have a cap,” said Natalija Dedic Stojanovic, co-founder and creative director of Paraiso Miami Beach, Swim Week’s main fashion production company. “Swimwear hasn’t stopped.”

The worldwide swimwear market pulled in more than $16 billion in 2020 and is expected to grow to about $21.4 billion by 2025, according to market research firm Euromonitor International. Statista, another global consumer data firm, predicts it will grow to an astonishing $29.1 billion by 2025.

In Miami it’s bikini season all year long, and the lockdown didn’t stop anyone from donning their swimwear – if only to venture out into their backyards. But swimwear is having a moment everywhere, as consumers look for the ultimate escape.

“When you think about it, you combine that pent-up travel demand with the desire for something new and swimwear has just really been benefiting from that,” said Kristen Classi-Zummo, director of apparel market insights for research group NPD, in an interview with WWD.

The U.S. swimwear market, which includes both men’s and women’s swimwear, grew by 19% from January to May 2021, compared to the same time in 2019, according to NPD’s Consumer Tracking Service.

While some industries have clear front-runners or large industry stakeholders, the swimwear market is a more even playing field, giving newcomers the opportunity to carve out a robust space for themselves. Miami Swim Week, hosted by Paraiso, boasted more than 30 events across seven different venues, many of which featured emerging designers, according to Dedic Stojanovic.

While other sectors of the fashion industry have lagged behind in what’s cutting-edge, swimwear has been quick to evolve.

New Technology Meets Sustainability

It’s no secret that apparel manufacturing produces a significant amount of pollution worldwide. To be precise, 10% of annual global carbon emissions stem from the fashion industry, according to the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change.

New technology has given rise to sustainable fabrics made from recyclable materials, and several swimwear companies have committed to designing collections solely with these fabrics going forward.

Megan Mae Swim, who debuted its first collection at Swim Week this year, is one of the brands leading others toward more sustainable fashion practices.

“All of our bikinis are made from recycled and harvested fishing nets,” said Megan Mae, the company’s designer and founder. “Old fishing nets are collected from all over the world and made into a fiber called Econyl – that’s what I used.”

Other sustainable swimwear brands that presented collections at Swim Week include Seeker of Sunshine, Rys and Beau Swim. Mae believes her positive message is what sets her brand apart.

“What I'm really proud of is that on the inside of all of these bikinis, you have a mantra,” she said. “Be the change you wish to see in the world. That's one of them … I would love if all brands could gear toward sustainability.”

Mae’s aspirations may not be that far off, as industry insiders predict many designers will take advantage of the new technology.

“I think there will be a lot of focus on fabric in the future,” Dedic Stojanovic said. “There will also be more and more brands focusing on a different type of fabric that could protect you while you're wearing it.”

Another recent fabric innovation is the combination of materials like nylon and Lycra spandex, to provide built-in sun protection. Swimwear brands utilizing this technology include Kanu Surf, Patagonia and Land’s End – the latter boasting swimsuits with an ultraviolet protection factor (UPF) of 50, the highest rating possible for any type of sun-protective fabric.

Diversity & Inclusion

Men and women of all backgrounds and body types have been on the runways of Miami Swim Week since 2019. Models with slightly rounded bellies, wide hips, different hair textures and various heights are characteristic of the fashion event, as the swimwear industry leads the way in representation and diversity in fashion.

Perhaps the most show-stopping examples of that at this year’s Swim Week were the Honey Birdette and Bfyne fashion shows.

Known throughout the world for its luxury lingerie and swimwear featuring risqué and daring styles, Honey Birdette had one of the most talked about shows – as plus-size models, women of varying ethnicities and drag queens modeled the brand’s newest collection. Aquaria, celebrity drag queen and winner of season 10 of the hit TV show “RuPaul’s Drag Race,” also performed at the show. Her triumphant rendition of Lady Gaga’s LGBTQ+ anthem “Born This Way” cemented the message of self-acceptance and celebrating people’s differences.

Meanwhile, all of the models on the Bfyne runway were Black, a conscious choice made by Buki Ade, the Nigerian-born designer behind the brand.

“We wanted to put it out there that Black is beautiful,” Ade said.

Her collection, featuring bright colors and rich African-inspired prints, looked striking against the darker skin tones of her models. This year was the brand’s second time at Swim Week, and it’s developed a reputation of being a must-see show, with a celebrity following to prove it.

Diversity at Swim Week also extended past its models. Designers from all over the world presented collections informed by their unique perspectives and experiences.

Kali’a Wasson, who helms up-and-coming swimwear brand Leimakani, was the first native Hawaiian designer to present a collection at Swim Week. Shervan Mclain, designer of swim and activewear brand PNDMC, became the first Black male designer to participate in the global fashion event. Both presented collections that were inclusive of all shapes and sizes.

“Diversity is so huge right now, and I feel like that was one of the biggest reasons why I started doing this,” Mclain said. “My goal was to design a collection for the average body shape."

Inclusivity does seem to be a trend in the swimwear industry, as more brands expand their sizing options and nontraditional models become the norm for both national campaigns and fashion shows.

How E-Commerce Has Changed the Landscape

Meanwhile, the biggest market shift within the swimwear industry is direct sales to the consumer.

Most of the collections featured at Miami Swim Week were available to purchase online as soon as they came down the runway, as the direct-to-consumer or e-commerce business model becomes increasingly popular for brands.

“We went through a pandemic and designers realized how important e-commerce is,” Dedic Stojanovic said. “It’s also understandable considering that profit margins are much higher when selling direct-to-consumer, compared to when there’s a middleman selling wholesale or going through a retailer.”

Fashion weeks, previously meant to showcase collections to industry insiders and retailers who buy in bulk, have become branding and marketing tools for e-commerce brands who want to create a buzz. Online fashion giants Boohoo and Oh Polly both presented collections at Miami Swim Week this year.

Michael Branney, Oh Polly’s co-founder and managing director, said participating in Swim Week has allowed the brand to set itself apart.

“I think that certainly in our first couple of years, we didn’t have a strong brand identity,” Branney said. “When we rebranded in mid 2018, that was really when we found our footing and established a strong brand image.”

Oh Polly’s swimwear has performed so well, a spinoff brand called Neena Swim was announced during Swim Week at the company's fashion show.

Social Media & Influencer Brands

Social media has also impacted the swimwear industry and how consumers shop for the clothing type.

Mix-and-match pieces as well as multiwear styles have become increasingly popular, as shoppers aim to stretch their wallets and purchase pieces that can be worn different ways.

Once a photo of an outfit is posted to Instagram or other social networking platforms, people may be hesitant to wear it again. This phenomena has led to a three-looks-in-one trend, and those who know how to navigate the social media landscape have capitalized on the approach.

Model/influencer-turned-designer Johanna Chone revealed her first swimwear collection at this year’s Miami Swim Week. Her brand, Nalu Swimwear, featured colorful and fun designs that could be worn multiple ways.

“I did a lot of colors, a lot of different patterns, but in the end it really works out,” Chone said about her debut collection. “I love living in a bikini and I do watersports almost every day, so I thought about that while I was designing.”

Although more influencer-owned swimwear brands keep popping up, the market isn’t oversaturated. Influencers with large followings have a built-in clientele base of supporters when they launch.

“People follow me for my style, the way that I dress and my personality. I wanted that to shine through in my collection and make it a piece of me. My heart and soul are in this company,” said reality TV star, model and influencer Nicole Williams English, the force behind luxury swimwear collection Nia Lynn.

The personal touches influencers put into their brands are an integral part of what resonates with consumers.

Look for Miami Swim Week to grow right alongside the industry, evolving into a sort of fashion festival with performances, parties and networking events for individuals and brands.

“There are not a lot of international events that are this strong in Miami Beach,” Dedic Stojanovic said. “You have the Food and Wine Festival, Art Basel and then Swim Week … and we’re still growing. We’re super excited for everything that’s coming.”