Real Life on the Runway at Miami Swim Week

“It is beautiful to see real life on the runway – how it really looks – and not just pretend,” said Natalija Dedic Stojanovic, co-founder and creative director of Paraiso Miami Beach. “Because we're not all size 0 to 2.”

The swimwear industry – which reached $2.7 billion in the first half of 2021, according to NPD’s Consumer Tracking Service – has produced astronomically high levels of pollution and body dysmorphia, but it’s evolving along with societal expectations.

The business has always pushed women to feel that they must meet unrealistic standards, but this year’s Miami Swim Week did its level best to change that narrative.

Throughout the four-day event that took place July 14-17, luxury and affordable swimwear brands alike presented their newest collections with pieces that highlighted contemporary trends while embracing diversity, inclusivity and sustainability.

Though some brands stuck to the traditional female model image in their shows, most of the lines walking the runway featured models of all races, ethnicities and body types, from washboard abs to curves to pregnant bellies.

Miami Swim Week 2022 hosted 45 events at 10 locations, an expansion from 2021, with the main Paraiso tent at Collins Park.

Across the way was a brand-new fashion pop-up shop, Espacio Vogue, created by Karla Martínez de Salas, head of editorial content for Vogue Mexico and Latin America. The Espacio Vogue pop-up featured a salon by Hydrafacial, Paraiso’s leading sponsor, that provided complimentary facials and sold beauty products from well-known brands such as JLo Beauty.

Although show organizers executed an in-person event last summer, many COVID-era restrictions – such as closed borders, mask mandates and social distancing – were in place. The return of international designers and the restoration of Paraiso's full capacity this year allowed for more events and featured brands.

In an international city where summer is year-round and people live where others vacation, Miami Swim Week is one of its most celebrated and attended happenings. Models, buyers and attendees flew in from all over the world to watch the models strut their stuff.

For the first time, organizers mandated ticketed seating for one show, Beach Bunny, and sold a VIP pass that unlocked complete industry access to the 15 shows that took place at the Paraiso Miami Beach tent, along with other perks. However, that pass came at a steep price – between $2,600 and $6,500.

Dedic Stojanovic says she wants Paraiso to be more accessible to all, in the industry and the public, and plans to have more individual ticketed shows next year.

The energy was strong as models paraded down the catwalk of sold-out presentations representing new and established local, regional and global brands.

Honoring Inclusivity

Paraiso Miami Beach sent out a striking message to the $24 billion worldwide swimwear industry: Every woman deserves to feel beautiful.

Black, Asian, Hispanic, curvaceous, plus-size and disabled models took the stage and the attention of attendees.

The crowd cheered on the thicker women who rocked their swimwear pieces on the runway as they painted a more realistic picture of what the average person looks like, especially as many women in Miami come from Hispanic and Afro-descendent backgrounds and tend to have more curvaceous attributes.

Dedic Stojanovic said diversity and inclusivity in this industry is crucial, because the narrow, historically idealized version of what a swimwear model should look like makes it difficult if not impossible for consumers to identify with them.

MTV star Juliette Porter, founder of JMP The Label, said that seeing her styles on models of various sizes and ethnicities was exhilarating.

“We want to end the negative self-talk and remind women that they are gorgeous and powerful just as they are,” stated Porter. “We don't want women to feel that they have to get ‘bikini ready.’ Our bikinis are there to be ready for you.”

That message is sometimes better understood when coming from someone who has always been seen as beautiful and talented in the public eye, but has struggled with body image issues themselves.

Jessie James Decker, country singer and founder of label Kittenish, is one of those people, and shared that she was extremely nervous to walk down the runway at Paraiso. She said she’s inspired by her 8-year-old daughter and that she feels it’s extremely important for little girls to see themselves relating to models on television and be able to say, “Hey, Mommy, that could be me one day.”

At the opening show, widely known California-based brand Cupshe presented its main line on the runway and collaborations with 2016 “Bachelorette” Jojo Fletcher and Black plus-size model Tabria Majors.

Cupshe jumped at the opportunity to partner with Majors to create a line for an underserved community that can struggle with finding swimwear that fits the different physiques therein. The collaborative plus-size line, Love Los Angeles, is a “celebration of life” and its imperfections, with fun patterns and vibrant colors, said Doreen Brennan, senior vice president of design.

Protecting the Planet

The primary textiles the swimwear industry has standardized over the last 50 years are petroleum-based spandex and polyester.

Dedic Stojanovic acknowledged that the business is one of the largest polluters in the world. In order to change that, she says it’s important for brands to employ sustainable practices, use fabrics that are biodegradable and raise awareness.

To promote sustainability, Paraiso Miami Beach collaborated with Istituto Marangoni Miami (IMM), a fashion design school, to present an upcycle challenge wherein five students were mentored by renowned swimwear brands to create cutting-edge looks out of recycled fabrics. The winner, Camila Balleste, who collaborated with Australia-based Bondi Born, was awarded a $10,000 scholarship after presenting her unique and versatile styles on the runway.

It is important to encourage sustainability to this younger generation while also teaching them to be authentic and creative, says Eva Hughes, an advisory board member at IMM and host of the event.

At its “Into the Jungle” show, JMP The Label presented multiple lines made from recycled and upcycled fabrics. Porter stated that in order to minimize production waste, the company also uses compostable packaging and reusable wet bags, limits its material purchases and produces in small boutique factories with low emissions.

Colombia-based brand Oneone hopes to stand out as one of the leading brands in sustainability by protecting the planet, one swimsuit at a time.

The brand, which made its debut runway show at Miami Swim Week, takes great pride in its ethical manufacturing. Designer Valentina Suescun says that because the company doesn’t want to contribute to the problem, it is committed to sustainability. Every piece produced is created on a made-to-order basis with no inventory, which results in little to no waste, and 50% of the bikinis are made from recycled materials.

Spotting Trends

Whether local or international, sustainable or not, every brand is following the latest trends and striving to make women feel special in their swimsuits in their own unique way.

The new Kittenish collection, featuring fruity patterns and summery hues, is available in one-pieces, and both low-rise and high-waisted bottoms. The models debuting the new line wore cowgirl hats and boots to represent the brand’s Nashville roots.

Oneone put comfort first. Its runway models wore slides and sneakers rather than sandals or heels, in sharp contrast to other brands. Suescun stated that she wants every woman who wears a Oneone design to feel comfortable, sexy and confident in it.

Local luxury swimwear and resort wear brand Luli Fama showcased everything from metallic to animal print to gold trim. Its newest collection, featuring lemons, florals and shells, was inspired by the seaside villas on Italy’s Amalfi Coast, said the brand’s founder and designer, Lourdes Hanimian.

Cupshe’s collaboration with Majors highlights all types of bathing suits, from bikinis and one-pieces with underwire, and mesh, prints, strappy tops and even some cover-ups – pieces not typically made for plus-size women – while its collection with Fletcher features cheekier bottoms and long- and puff-sleeve bikini tops.

“Representation really matters,” said JMP’s Porter, “and so many women of size and women of color have been left out of the limelight for too long.”