Bonaire: Once a Visitor Always a Friend

Bonaire, the B of the “ABC” Islands – which also include Aruba and Curacao – is located 50 miles off the north coast of Venezuela and is the smallest of its sister islands in terms of population and size. Nearly 21,000 people call the 112-square-mile island home, which stretches 24 miles from north to south. A beautiful mix of deserts, mountains, beaches, rich history and people, Bonaire is a unique destination worth discovering.

The island is a part of the Netherlands and its residents enjoy the same rights as Dutch citizens, though the country is not part of the European Union. Dutch is the official language, but English, Spanish and Papiamentu – a Creole language mixed with Spanish, Portuguese and Dutch with roots in West Africa – are also spoken.

To enter Bonaire, you must have a negative COVID-19 test and fill out the country’s health declaration form. I chose to take a direct flight from Miami International Airport on American Airlines, which is the only airline flying directly into the island’s capital, Kralendijk. Upon landing and before entering the airport, you must present your negative test results, health declaration form and vaccination record (if vaccinated). According to the World Health Organization, there have been 1,699 confirmed cases of COVID-19 in Bonaire, with 17 deaths – some of the lowest coronavirus numbers in the Caribbean.

After leaving the airport it was off to the hotel, Courtyard by Marriott Bonaire Dive Resort, which welcomed me with some of the brightest colors I have ever seen. You can’t miss the yellows, pinks, sea greens and sky blues as you make the drive in, and with little houses situated along the waterfront, it was very easy to begin to feel the spirit of the island. My first night included spectacular views from the hotel’s oceanfront bar and restaurant.

The next day began with a tour of the island’s south side. Stopping at each beach I noticed a lot of snorkelers and divers. Bonaire is known as a diving capital; the country has practiced nature conservation for decades by protecting its coral reefs and putting down moorings that protect against anchoring.

The next stop was the majestic Salt Pans. The southern part of the island is nearly flat and barely rises above sea level. A significant portion of this southern region is covered with sea water being processed for salt production; the massive pyramid-shaped mounds of white crystal can be seen from afar. Salt production is a study in science. It takes eight months to make and requires evaporation, sun and wind. The history of Bonaire’s salt production includes a labor force comprising enslaved persons.

My third stop was the slave huts used as sleeping quarters for that labor force. I had never visited one before, so I wasn’t sure what my emotions would be. My first thought as I approached them was, “these are so small.” To enter, you must crouch down to the ground and basically crawl in. I went in and it was eerie. I’d equate its size to a storage unit; I’m almost 5′7″ and my head nearly touched the ceiling. I learned that only men lived in the huts (two per hut). The labor was hard and everything was done by hand.

On Fridays workers were allowed to go to their families, and they got there by walking to village Rincon. I thought about the one-way six-hour trek they made each weekend to see their families after a week of backbreaking work. Watching others stop to take photos, I wondered if they truly understood the painful, historic significance of what they were capturing with their selfies. The huts, painted to reflect the colors of the Dutch flag, were built in 1850 and are still intact – no graffiti, no vandalization. It is a testament to the island that this evidence of its dark past is being preserved.

“These slave huts are tough to see when you think about what happened (here). We have to learn from our past [and these are] a reminder to look into the future to make our future better for everybody,” said Rolando Marin, a Bonaire Tourism Board information officer.

After lunch at Stoked, a local double-decker food truck parked on a cliff overlooking the ocean, it was on to downtown Kralendijk, which is clearly where the island’s Marriott resort got its colorful inspiration. Scooters and golf carts are used by many to get around, and cost about $65 USD to rent for the day.

Dinner was enjoyed at downtown’s Capriccio, which served the best Italian food outside of Rome that I’ve had, bar none. It’s run by chef Andrea Magni and his wife, Lorella. Magni was the youngest chef in Italy to receive a Michelin star. The couple vacationed in Bonaire 20 years ago and loved it so much they decided to open a restaurant there.

A tour of the island’s north side included a stop at 1000 Steps Beach, named after a limestone staircase you must descend to get there. I was relieved to only count 71 steps on my descent! It’s a popular snorkel and dive site and the waters are some of the prettiest shades of blue and turquoise you’ll ever see.

Because of Bonaire’s dry climate, cactus abound on the island. I was excited to visit The Cadushy Distillery, where the alcohol is made from a cactus. Yep, that prickly plant you admire from afar can produce liquor and it was refreshing!

Another important stop is the Mangazina di Rei museum. Housed in a storehouse built in 1824 where provisions for enslaved persons were stored, it is the second-oldest building on Bonaire. The museum tells of the island’s history, culture and peoples. You learn how they lived on the land and that many traditional customs are still practiced today.

After a full day of touring the island, my last evening was spent at the island’s newest bar, Tiki & Co. Not the usual kitschy tiki bar, its owner and Holland native “Sir” Eddy Trenidad worked on its design while on pandemic lockdown. I would never have guessed that the bar had only been open two months.

“I want to inspire a new generation of bartenders to think differently,” said Trenidad. “I want to teach people how to make drinks based on how they feel.”

I ordered the Tia Dalma, a smoky-sweet cocktail that includes actual tendrils of smoke in its presentation. I loved the drink and the production that went along with it.

After a delicious mahi mahi seaside dinner at Ingridiënts – spelled I-n-g-r-i-d after its founder, Ingrid – it was time to say goodbye to Bonaire.

Leaving the island is relatively smooth. You must present your COVID-19 test results, which takes a little time. Walking the runway under the rays of the Bonaire sun, I reflected on my visit and the friendliness of the people. It’s true what they say about Bonaire: Once a visitor, always a friend.