The Biscayne Times

Aug 05th
Delightful, Decadent Desserts PDF Print E-mail
Written by Geoffrey Anderson Jr. and Dianne Rubin, BT Contributors   
September 2019

Food news we know you can use

APix_Dish_9-19s the last part of a meal, dessert gets a raw deal. “No dessert today, just the check please” is a common refrain when guests are too full of starters and entrées to squeeze in some sweets.

That’s a shame: South Florida is home to a wide range of desserts that deserve just as much love as their savory counterparts. We’re not talking about chocolate cake, key lime pie, and other traditional sweets, either. Unique creations, both simple and complex, abound throughout the vibrant food scene.

For example, take the ice-cream sandwich at Jaguar Sun (230 NE 4th St., 786-860-2422). At its core, it’s just an ice-cream sandwich; there’s not much to it. But chef Carey Hynes elevates the familiar dessert by putting fresh vanilla ice cream between two halves of a kouign-amann. The French pastry is an uncommon sight at local bakeries. Think of it as a very buttery croissant (but better). One bite and you’ll immediately want to order another one.

Further north, celebrated chef Brad Kilgore’s dessert team is wowing guests at Ember Miami (151 NE 41st St., Unit 117, 786-334-6494) with a creative menu of sweet standouts like tropical profiterole, rice crispy à la mode, and turtle cake roulade. The star of the menu is the maduro cream pie, a wonderfully Miami take on the classic dessert. Brown butter maduros, banana, and toasted coconut fuse to make a monstrous impression on the plate. With some coquito ice cream on the side, it’s a meal on its own.

You can’t list decadent desserts in Miami without mentioning the butterscotch Heath bar bread pudding at Blue Collar (6730 Biscayne Blvd., 305-756-0366) in MiMo. It’s both a mouthful in name and size: a thick slice of bread pudding accompanied by cayenne whipped cream for a little kick. The mix of sweet and spice is perfectly balanced; it’s no wonder the dish is a permanent fixture on the menu.

But what if you don’t want to work through a whole meal for some sweets? Local dessert shops and bakeries have your back with pastries that aren’t your everyday café offerings.

At the Upper Eastside’s Cream Parlor (8224 Biscayne Blvd., 786-534-4180), epic Instagram-worthy sundaes and shakes are the norm. The glassware, which ranges from old superhero plastic cups to funny workplace quote mugs, is sure to get a laugh or evoke some nostalgic feelings.

For something fast, pop into North Miami Beach’s Nothing Bundt Cakes (15400 Biscayne Blvd., Suite #112, 305-974-4536) for a mini bundt cake (or more realistically, a couple of them) to go in flavors like confetti, pecan praline, and red velvet. Or pay a visit to nearby Taiwan Ice (16165 Biscayne Blvd., 305-749-6601), where rolled ice cream and bubble tea will keep you cool in this Miami heat.



Summer is supposed to be the slow season for restaurants, but that hasn’t stopped some big names from popping up -- like the one-two punch of Le Jardinier (51 NE 41 St., Suite 135, 305-402-9060) and L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon (151 NE 41 St., Suite 235, 305-402-9070).

Le Jardinier, the downstairs venue, is the more casual of the concepts by the late chef; as the name suggests, you can expect lots of vegetables to accompany your protein of choice. Highlights include Maine scallops with baby carrots, snow peas, and onions, as well as a fingerling gnocchi with charred corn, tomato, and parmesan.

L’Atelier, on the other hand, is French fine dining through and through. You can order à la carte, but the better value is one of the tasting menus. If you’re going to splurge, go for the ten-course “Evolution” experience. Just make sure to set aside a few hours for your meal.

In other opening news, downtown Miami welcomed a new watering hole with a twist. Esotico (1600 NE 1st Ave., 305-800-8454), a fun tiki bar and restaurant from Graspa Group (Salumeria 104; Spris), has brought tropical vibes and cocktails to the neighborhood. Drinks are served in a variety of vessels, including tiki mugs and volcanoes. The food menu features “tropical chow” like octopus hot dogs and pupu platters. It’s best to come in a group to make the most of quirky bowl drinks and sizeable plates.


Geoffrey Anderson Jr. and Dianne Rubin-Anderson are co-founders of Miami Food Pug, an award-winning South Florida food blog that fuses the couple’s love of dogs and food.


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