The Biscayne Times

Mar 31st
North Miami Beach PDF Print E-mail

Restaurant listings for the BT Dining Guide are written Pamela Robin Brandt ( This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it ). Every effort has been made to ensure accuracy, but please call ahead to confirm information. Icons ($$$) represent estimates for a typical meal without wine, tax, or tip. Hyphenated icons ($-$$$) indicate a significant range in prices between lunch and dinner menus, or among individual items on those menus.
$= $10 and under
$$= $20
$$$= $30
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$$$$$= $50 and over

Bamboo Garden

1232 NE 163rd St.
Big enough for a banquet (up to 300 guests), this veteran is many diners’ favorite on the 163rd/167th Street “Chinatown” strip because of its superior décor. But the menu also offers well-prepared, authentic dishes like peppery black bean clams, sautéed mustard greens, and steamed whole fish with ginger and scallions, plus Chinese-American egg foo young. Default spicing is mild even in Szechuan dishes marked with red-chili icons, but don’t worry; realizing some like it hot, the chefs will customize spiciness to heroic heat levels upon request. $$

Blue Marlin Fish House
2500 NE 163rd St.
Located inside Oleta River State Park, this casual outdoor eatery is a rare surprise for nature lovers, especially since a young couple took over and upgraded the menu. The featured item is still the house-smoked fish this historic venue began producing in 1938, available in three varieties: salmon, mahi mahi, and the signature blue marlin. But the smokehouse now also turns out ribs and delectable brisket. Other new additions include weekend fish fries with live music. Entry is directly from 163rd Street, not through the main park entrance. No admission fee. $

Chef Rolf’s Tuna’s Seafood Restaurant
17850 W. Dixie Hwy.
Known for decades as simply Tuna’s, this indoor/outdoor eatery, combining a casual vibe with some surprisingly sophisticated food, now has a name recognizing the culinary refinements introduced by Rolf Fellhauer, for 28 years executive chef at Continental fine-dining spot La Paloma. Additions to the predominantly seafood menu include chateaubriand or rack of lamb for two, both carved, with old-school spectacle, tableside. Owner Michael Choido has also renovated the interior dining room, and added the Yellowfin Lounge, which features an extensive selection of artisan beers. $$-$$$

Chipotle Mexican Grill
14776 Biscayne Blvd.
Proving that national fast-food chains don’t have to be bad for either diners or the environment, Chipotle serves what the company calls “food with integrity.” The fare is simple, basically tacos and big burritos: soft flour or crisp corn tortillas stuffed with chipotle-marinated steak or chicken chunks, bolder shredded beef barbacoa, or herb-scented pork carnitas. But these bites contain no evil ingredients (transfats, artificial color/flavor, antibiotics, growth hormones). And the food, while not the authentic Mex street stuff dreams are made of, is darned tasty, too. $

Cholo’s Ceviche & Grill
1127 NE 163rd St.
Don’t be misled by the mini-mall location, or the relatively minimal prices (especially during lunch, when specials are under $6). Inside, the décor is charming, and the Peruvian plates elegant in both preparation and presentation. Tops among ceviches/tiraditos is the signature Cholo’s, marinated octopus and fish in a refined rocoto chili sauce with overtones both fiery and fruity. And don’t miss the molded causas, whipped potato rings stuffed with avocado-garnished crab salad -- altogether lighter and lovelier than the tasty but oily mashed spud constructions more oft encountered in town. $-$$

Christine’s Roti Shop
16721 NE 6th Ave.
Wraps are for wimps. At this small shop run by Christine Gouvela, originally from British Guyana, the wrapper is a far more substantial and tasty roti, a Caribbean mega-crepe made from chickpea flour. Most popular filling for the flatbread is probably jerk chicken, bone-in pieces in a spiced stew of potatoes, cabbage, carrots, onions, and more chickpeas. But there are about a dozen other curries from which to choose. Take-out packages of plain roti are also available; they transform myriad leftovers into tasty, portable lunches. $

Duffy’s Sports Grill
Intracoastal Mall
3969 NE 163rd St.
Located in a sprawling indoor/outdoor space at the Intracoastal Mall, Duffy’s, part of a popular chain that identifies as the official sports grill of every major Miami team, features roughly a zillion TVs and an equally mega-size menu of accessibly Americanized, globally inspired dishes designed to please crowds: stuffed potato skins, crab Rangoon, coconut-crusted fish fingers with orange-ginger sauce, jumbo wings of many flavors. Imagine a sports-oriented Cheesecake Factory. What makes this particular Duffy’s different and better? Location, location, location -- fronting the Intracoastal Waterway. There’s even a swimming pool with its own bar. $$-$$$

El Gran Inka
3155 NE 163rd St.
Though diners at this upscale Peruvian eatery will find ceviches, a hefty fried-seafood jalea, and Peru’s other expected traditional specialties, all presented far more elegantly than most in town, the contemporary Peruvian fusion creations are unique. Especially recommended are two dishes adapted from recipes by Peru’s influential nikkei (Japanese/Creole) chef Rosita Yimura: an exquisite, delicately sauced tiradito de corvina, and for those with no fear of cholesterol, pulpo de oliva (octopus topped with rich olive sauce). $$$-$$$$

El’eat Restaurant & Lounge
3207 NE 163rd St.
In an amusingly 1970s-retro/glam space, festooned with chandeliers, chef Will Biscoe crafts unpretentiously upgraded multicultural comfort foods: tarte flamande, an Alsacian flatbread topped with crème fraîche, onions, and sophisticated speck instead of traditional salt pork-like lardons; avocado “fritters” (panko-breaded wedges flash-fried crispy) with spicy mayo-based Japanese “dynamite” sauce plus, to balance the richness, pickled carrots/daikon (the crunchy condiment everyone adores on Vietnamese banh mi sandwiches). Or have a steak, with New/Old World sauces. For dessert, Biscoe’s homemade chocolate chip cookies, upscaled with Valrhona chocolate, are people-pleasers. $$$

Empire Szechuan Gourmet of NY
3427 NE 163rd St.
In the 1980s, Empire became the Chinese chain that swallowed Manhattan -- and transformed public perceptions of Chinese food in the NY metropolitan area. Before: bland faux-Cantonese dishes. After: lighter, more fiery fare from Szechuan and other provinces. This Miami outpost does serve chop suey and other Americanized items, but don't worry. Stick with Szechuan crispy prawns, Empire's Special Duck, cold sesame noodles, or similar pleasantly spicy specialties, and you’ll be a happy camper, especially if you’re an ex-New Yorker. $$

Ginza Japanese Buffet
16153 Biscayne Blvd.,
Highlighting the lunch and dinners spreads at this all-you-can-eat Japanese buffet are a hibachi station (where chefs custom-cook diners’ choice of seafood or meat), plus many types of maki rolls and individual nigiri sushi, both featuring a larger variety of seafood than at many sushi bars -- not just salmon and tuna but snapper, escolar, surf clam, snow crab, and more. But there are also steam-tabled hot Japanese and Chinese dishes; an array of cold shellfish and salads with mix-and-match sauces; and desserts. Selections vary, but value-for-money is a given. $$

Green House Organic Food Restaurant
3207 NE 163rd St.
The name sounds a bit healthfoody, but there’s no crunchy granola here. Argentine-born, globally traveling chef Marcelo Marino, who’s also an instructor at Le Cordon Bleu Miami, uses only organic and/or sustainable produce and proteins to serve upscale avant-garde fusion fare: halibut atop traditional French Nantua (creamy lobster) sauce, with lemongrass/saffron-infused faro risotto; octopus with delicate black radish tempura and coconut/pineapple/tea foam; and similar stuff requiring mad skills in both classic cooking and molecular gastronomy. Breads, cheeses, and cured meats are all made in-house, too. $$$

Hanna’s Gourmet Diner
13951 Biscayne Blvd.
When Sia and Nicole Hemmati bought the Gourmet Diner from retiring original owner Jean-Pierre Lejeune in the late 1990s, they added “Hanna’s” to the name, but changed little else about this retro-looking French/American diner, a north Miami-Dade institution since 1983. Customers can get a cheeseburger or garlicky escargots, meatloaf in tomato sauce or boeuf bourguignon in red wine sauce, iceberg lettuce and tomatoes, or a mushroom and squid salad with garlic dressing. For oysters Rockefeller/tuna-melt couples from Venus and Mars, it remains the ideal dinner date destination. $$-$$$

Hiro Japanese Restaurant
3007 NE 163rd St., 305-948-3687
One of Miami’s first sushi restaurants, Hiro retains an amusing retro-glam feel, an extensive menu of both sushi and cooked Japanese food, and late hours that make it a perennially popular after-hours snack stop. The sushi menu has few surprises, but quality is reliable. Most exceptional are the nicely priced yakitori, skewers of succulently soy-glazed and grilled meat, fish, and vegetables; the unusually large variety available of the last makes this place a good choice for vegetarians. $$

Hiro’s Sushi Express
17048 W. Dixie Hwy.
Tiny, true, but there’s more than just sushi at this mostly take-out spin-off of the pioneering Hiro. Makis are the mainstay (standard stuff like California rolls, more complex creations like multi-veg futomaki, and a few unexpected treats like a spicy Crunch & Caliente maki), available à la carte or in value-priced individual and party combo platters. But there are also bento boxes featuring tempura, yakitori skewers, teriyaki, stir-fried veggies, and udon noodles. Another branch is now open in Miami’s Upper Eastside. $

1550 NE 164th St
If unusual Bangladeshi dishes like fiery pumpkin patey (cooked with onion, green pepper, and pickled mango) or Heelsha curry (succulently spiced hilsa, Bangladesh’s sweet-fleshed national fish) seem familiar, it’s because chef/owner Bithi Begum and her husband Tipu Raman once served such fare at the critically acclaimed Renaisa. Their menu’s mix-and-match option allows diners to pair their choice of meat, poultry, fish, or vegetable with more than a dozen regional sauces, from familiar Indian styles to exotica like satkara, flavored with a Bangladeshi citrus reminiscent of sour orange. $$-$$$

Jerusalem Market and Deli
16275 Biscayne Blvd.
Specialties like shawarma, spinach pies, kebabs, hummus, and kibbeh (a savory mix of ground lamb and bulgur) are native to many Middle East countries, but when a Lebanese chef/owner, like this eatery’s Sam Elzoor, is at the helm, you can expect extraordinary refinement. There are elaborate daily specials here, like lemon chicken or stuffed cabbage with a variety of sides, but even a common falafel sandwich is special when the pita is also stuffed with housemade cabbage and onion salads, plus unusually rich and tart tahina. $-$$

Julio’s Natural Foods Emporium
1602 NE Miami Gardens Dr.
Vegetarians and vegans tired of settling for the one sad steamed vegetable entrée tacked onto most menus will be in in pork-free pig heaven. Owner Julio Valderrama’s healthy global (though mostly Mediterranean, Mexican, and New American) menu of not-so-small plates, salads, sandwiches/wraps, and organic grain-based platters is so immense you could literally eat for months without repeating -- or indulging in poultry and fish dishes. Cooking isn’t cutting-edge, but unusual spicing keeps things interesting. Especially recommended: a signature veg-and-feta-packed za’atar flatbread; also slightly sinful sweet potato with butter and cinnamon. $-$$

3055 NE 163rd St.
This place makes a very good tahini sauce. In fact that alone is reason enough to visit. We prefer ours with this bright, cheery eatery’s delightfully oniony falafel or a veg-garnished wrap of thin-sliced marinated beef schwarma. They also do a beautifully spiced, and reassuringly fresh-tasting, raw kibbi naye (Middle Eastern steak tartare). It’s hard to resist putting together a grazing meal of starters and wraps, but there’s also a roster of full entrées (with soup or salad plus starch), including tempting vegetarian and seafood meals for noncarnivores. $$

Kebab Indian Restaurant
514 NE 167th St.
Since the 1980s this restaurant, located in an unatmospheric mini strip mall but surprisingly romantic inside (especially if you grab one of the exotically draped booths) has been a popular destination for reasonably priced north Indian fare. Kormas are properly soothing and vindaloos are satisfactorily searing, but the kitchen will adjust seasonings upon request. They aim to please. Food arrives unusually fast for an Indian eatery, too. $$

Kings County Pizza
18228 W. Dixie Hwy.
If your feelings about Brooklyn-style pizza have been formed by Domino’s flopsy-crusted, ketchupy, cheesefoody pies, stop here to sample a slice of the real thing. Admittedly, the crusts are not those of the coal-fired classics from Brooklyn’s legendary Totonno’s or Grimaldi’s, but they’re similarly medium-thin and crisp -- though not like a cracker; you can fold them for neat street eating, and they taste like honest bread, not cardboard. A variety of toppings are available even on slices. There are also whole pies with varied toppings. The “large” is humongous. $-$$

387 NE 167th St.
Cones contain ice cream. Kones, however, contain anything and everything edible -- at least at this eatery, locally founded (though the original concept of ultimate portable convenience meals, in sealed flatbread cones, came from Italy). In their melting-pot American version, kone fillings range from breakfast items like huevos rancheros to Thai chicken, chicken curry, coconut shrimp, kones kon lechon (slow-roasted pork with mojo), various pizzas, BBQ, chicken Florentine, healthy green salads, more. There are even desserts like a flambéed apple Kone à la Normande. Authentic Belgian frites, too. $

La Crème de la Crêpe
14881 Biscayne Blvd.
With a menu including starters (rustic pâté; elegant smoked salmon crostillants), homemade soups, generously garnished charcuterie/cheese plates, custardy quiches, sandwiches, salads, even a daily special entrée, this cute creperie is almost more a bistro. But don’t miss the authentic Breton crêpes, savory ones like La Spicy (a Moroccan-style mix of merguez sausage, cheese, egg, tomato sauce, and hot harissa) made from buckwheat flour; or sweet ones like La Nutella (filled with bananas, chocolate/hazlenut spread, and whipped cream) from white flour. Both date-worthy and family-friendly, it’s open for three squares Monday-Saturday, and brunch on Sunday. $$-$$$

Laurenzo’s Market Café
16385 W. Dixie Hwy.
It’s just a small area between the wines and the fridge counters – no potted palms, and next-to-no service in this cafeteria-style space. But when negotiating this international gourmet market’s packed shelves and crowds has depleted your energies, it’s a handy place to refuel with eggplant parmesan and similar Italian-American classics, housemade from old family recipes. Just a few spoonfuls of Wednesday’s hearty pasta fagiole, one of the daily soup specials, could keep a person shopping for hours. And now that pizza master Carlo is manning the wood-fired oven, you can sample the thinnest, crispiest pies outside Napoli. $-$$

Lime Fresh Mexican Grill
14831 Biscayne Blvd.
Like its downtown and Midtown siblings, this Lime Fresh serves up carefully crafted Tex-Mex food. The concept is “fast casual” rather than fast food – meaning nice enough for a night out. It also means ingredients are always fresh. Seafood tacos are about as exotic as the menu gets, but the mahi mahi for fish tacos comes from a local supplier, and salsas are housemade daily. Niceties include low-carb tortillas and many Mexican beers. $

Little Saigon
16752 N. Miami Ave.
This is Miami’s oldest traditional Vietnamese restaurant, but it’s still packed most weekend nights. So even the place’s biggest negative – its hole-in-the-wall atmosphere, not encouraging of lingering visits – becomes a plus since it ensures fast turnover. Chef/owner Lily Tao is typically in the kitchen, crafting green papaya salad, flavorful beef noodle pho (served with greens, herbs, and condiments that make it not just a soup but a whole ceremony), and many other Vietnamese classics. The menu is humongous. $-$$

The Melting Pot
15700 Biscayne Blvd.
For 1950s and 1960s college students, fondue pots were standard dorm accessories. These days, however, branches of this chain are generally the only places to go for this eating experience. Start with a wine-enriched four-cheese fondue; proceed to an entrée with meat or seafood, plus choice of cooking potion (herbed wine, bouillon, or oil); finish with fruits and cakes dipped in melted chocolate. Fondue etiquette dictates that diners who drop a skewer in the pot must kiss all other table companions, so go with those you love. $$$

New China Buffet
940 North Miami Beach Blvd.
The venue (a former Bennigan's) is clean, casual, and not kitschy. The all-you-can-eat fare is voluminous -- scores of Chinese dishes (recommended: Mongolian pork, spicy garlic shrimp, and surprisingly authentic steamed fish with ginger and scallion); international oddities (pizza, plantains, pigs-in-blankets); plus sushi, salad, and pastry/ice cream bars. And the price is sure right. Lunch is $6.75 ($7.75 Saturday and Sunday). Dinner features more seafood, $9.55. There's an inexpensive take-out option, too, and reduced kids' prices. $

Oishi Thai
14841 Biscayne Blvd.
At this stylish Thai/sushi spot, try the menu of specials, many of which clearly reflect the young chef’s fanatical devotion to fresh fish, as well as the time he spent in the kitchen of Knob: broiled miso-marinated black cod; rock shrimp tempura with creamy sauce; even Nobu Matsuhisa’s “new style sashimi” (slightly surface-seared by drizzles of hot olive and sesame oil). The specials menu includes some Thai-inspired creations, too, such as veal massaman curry, Chilean sea bass curry, and sizzling filet mignon with basil sauce. $$$-$$$$

Panya Thai
520 NE 167th St.
Unlike authentic Chinese cuisine, there’s no shortage of genuine Thai food in and around Miami. But Panya’s chef/owner, a Bangkok native, offers numerous regional and/or rare dishes not found elsewhere. Plus he doesn’t automatically curtail the heat or sweetness levels to please Americans. Among the most intriguing: moo khem phad wan (chewy deep-fried seasoned pork strips with fiery tamarind dip, accompanied by crisp green papaya salad); broad rice noodles stir-fried with eye-opening chili/garlic sauce and fresh Thai basil; and chili-topped Diamond Duck in tangy tamarind sauce. $$-$$$

16265 Biscayne Blvd.
From the outside, this strip-mall Mexican eatery couldn’t be easier to overlook. Inside, however, its festivity is impossible to resist. Every inch of wall space seems to be covered with South of the Border knickknacks. And if the kitschy décor alone doesn’t cheer you, the quickly arriving basket of fresh (not packaged) taco chips, or the mariachi band, or the knockout margaritas will. Food ranges from Tex-Mex burritos and a party-size fajita platter to authentic Mexican moles and harder-to-find traditional preparations like albóndigas – spicy, ultra-savory meatballs. $$-$$$

Rizio’s Peruvian Cuisine
15975 Biscayne Blvd.
Peruvian eateries featuring ceviches and classic cooked dishes are plentiful in Miami; those adding “NovoAndean” fine-dining fare to the mix? Not so much. Since 2000, evolutionary chefs in Peru have been using sophisticated European techniques to revive humble native Andean ingredients like quinoa. Since late 2012, this secret spot has been, too, thanks to former Lima restaurateur Cesar Valverde, a traditionalist, and his chef son Mauricio, a Miami Culinary Institute-trained innovator. Even traditional tiraditos have delightful elegance. But don’t neglect Novo inventions like “trigottos,” risottos substituting trigo (wheat) for rice. $$$

Roasters & Toasters
18515 NE 18th Ave.
Attention ex-New Yorkers: Is your idea of food porn one of the Carnegie Deli’s mile-high pastrami sandwiches? Well, Roasters will dwarf them. Consider the “Carnegie-style” monster containing, according to the menu, a full pound of succulent meat (really 1.4 pounds; we weighed it), for a mere 15 bucks. All the other Jewish deli classics are here too, including perfectly sour pickles, silky hand-sliced nova or lox, truly red-rare roast beef, and the cutest two-bite mini-potato pancakes ever — eight per order, served with sour cream and applesauce. $$

Sang’s Chinese Restaurant
1925 NE 163rd St.
Sang’s has three menus. The pink menu is Americanized Chinese food, from chop suey to honey garlic chicken. The white menu permits the chef to show off his authentic Chinese fare: salt and pepper prawns, rich beef/turnip casserole, tender salt-baked chicken, even esoterica like abalone with sea cucumber. The extensive third menu offers dim sum, served until 4:00 p.m. A live tank allows seasonal seafood dishes like lobster with ginger and scallion. Recently installed: a Chinese barbecue case, displaying savory items like crispy pork with crackling attached. $$$

Siam Square
54 NE 167th St.
Open until 1:00 a.m. every day except Sunday (when is closes at midnight), this relatively new addition to North Miami Beach’s “Chinatown” strip has become a popular late-night gathering spot for chefs from other Asian restaurants. And why not? The food is fresh, nicely presented, and reasonably priced. The kitchen staff is willing to customize dishes upon request, and the serving staff is reliably fast. Perhaps most important, karaoke equipment is in place when the mood strikes. $-$$

Soprano Café
3933 NE 163rd St.
Sicilian native Rocco Soprano, original proprietor of South Beach’s Soprano’s, has transformed this Intracoastal Waterway space, formerly the enoteca Rack’s, into an elegant but family-friendly restaurant featuring classic Italian dishes plus steakhouse fare, all in prodigious portions. For an ultimate Miamian/Italian fusion experience, arrive by boat at Soprano’s dock, grab a table on the water-view deck, and enjoy a coal-oven pizza -- perhaps the famous truffled white pizza, or our personal fave secchi: sopressata salami, zesty tomato sauce, provolone, goat cheese, and fresh fior di latte mozzarella. $$$

Sports Grill
2995 NE 163rd St.
Like the other five locations of this popular local mini chain (which originated more than 20 years ago), NMB’s family-friendly sports bar/grill has walls lined with flat-screen TVs and a menu packed with all the classic game-watching munchies, some with Old South twists, like jalapeño poppers with pepper jelly dipping sauce. Must-haves are the charbroiled “special wings,” meaty and mild. But for those who prefer more highly spiced wings, there are six additional varieties. Cool down with a craft beer from a list that changes weekly to avoid boredom. $-$$

Sushi House
15911 Biscayne Blvd.
In terms of décor drama, this sushi spot seems to have taken its cue from Philippe Starck: sheer floor-to-ceiling drapes, for starters. The sushi list, too, is over the top, featuring monster makis like the Cubbie Comfort: spicy tuna, soft-shell crab, shrimp and eel tempura, plus avocado, jalapeños, and cilantro, topped with not one but three sauces: wasabi, teriyaki, and spicy mayo. Hawaiian King Crab contains unprecedented ingredients like tomatoes, green peppers, and pineapple. Boutique wines, artisan sakes, and cocktails are as exotic as the cuisine. $$$-$$$$

Sushi Sake
13551 Biscayne Blvd.
Chic Asian-accented décor, video screens, 99-cent drink deals, and late-night hours make this hip hangout not just a sushi bar but sort of a neighborhood bar, too. That said, the sushi is impressive, mainly because seafood is delivered daily and all except the shrimp is fresh, not frozen (as is customary at most Miami sushi places). Also notable: All sauces are housemade. Cooked makis like a crunch-topped Miami Heat are most popular, but it’s as sashimi that the fish’s freshness truly shines. $$-$$$

Tania’s Table
18685 W. Dixie Hwy.
A location at the tail end of a tiny, tired-looking strip mall makes this weekday lunch-only kosher eatery easy to miss. But the cute bistro, an extension of chef Tania Sigal’s catering company, is well worth seeking for its unusually varied daily-changing menus -- not just familiar Eastern European-derived dishes (chicken matzoh ball soup, blintzes, etc.) but numerous Latin American specialties (zesty ropa vieja), Asian-influenced items (Thai chicken/noodle salad), lightened universal Ladies-Who-Lunch classics (custardy quiches, grilled trout with mustard sauce), and homemade baked goods. $$

Vegetarian Restaurant by Hakin
73 NE 167th St.
Too often purist vegetarian food is unskillfully crafted bland stuff, spiced with little but sanctimonious intent. Not at this modest-looking vegan (dairy-free vegetarian) restaurant and smoothie bar. Dishes from breakfast's blueberry-packed pancakes to Caribbean vegetable stews sparkle with vivid flavors. Especially impressive: mock meat (and fake fish) wheat-gluten items that beat many carnivorous competitors. Skeptical? Rightly. But we taste-tested a “Philly cheese steak" sandwich on the toughest of critics -- an inflexibly burger-crazy six year-old. She cleaned her plate. $$

3881 NE 163rd. St. (Intracoastal Mall)
After sushi chefs close up their own restaurants for the night, many come here for a rare taste of Japanese home cooking, served in grazing portions. Try glistening-fresh strips of raw tuna can be had in maguro nuta – mixed with scallions and dressed with habit-forming honey-miso mustard sauce. Other favorites include goma ae (wilted spinach, chilled and dressed in sesame sauce), garlic stem and beef (mild young shoots flash-fried with tender steak bits), or perhaps just-caught grouper with hot/sweet/tangy chili sauce. Open till around 3:00 a.m. $$


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